Thursday, 27 March 2014

Mainly wood

D’accord

This is a bit of a long one as it has been a while I know.  Je suis desole.

Another ski trip…to the resort of Pierre St Martin which you are told is open but you get within 10 kilometres and there is still not a smidgin of the white stuff. Then if coming from Arret you begin to climb at about 60 degrees and 4 foot of snow appears like the immediacy of Harry Potter’s Whomping Willow shedding its leaves.  This time the snow started at 15 kilometres away and it was falling horizontally. The snow trucks had not kept up and passed us going down to start their day, so in the resort itself you could have been forgiven for not knowing there were roundabouts and lanes. We drove into a parking spot without seeing the 12 inch wide sink hole which our left back wheel must have gone over. By the time we came back after a powder day which kept being a powder day all day the hole had been covered up by snow and a cone put at the back of the car so thanks for the hazard warning attached to the stable door of the bolting horse. Gingerly we feel around the area we think it is so we can reverse strategically but P suddenly drops 3 feet in height on his left side – he’d found what was a sink hole. Any clues what we can fill the hole with hmmm, how about the 4 foot of snow drift that has built up against the car.  Job done and having followed the locals and lifted the windscreen wipers up so they don’t freeze to the screen we remember to put them back down but they won’t go down due to an accumulation of ice, I resort to using the ski goggle wipers on my ski gloves.  Gulping deeply we manage to reverse over the hole and set off down the mountain side..which has become so icy that as we start to slide rather than drive the windscreen wipers appear to speed up and screech panicking the ABS into action. I have to get out twice to get more ice off the wiper blades, we wait behind  two snow trucks which clearly operate like buses and have to overtake a  Frenchman driving so uncharacteristically slow we are really freaked.

Aah home, fresh bread, sloe gin, hot bath, fire, pizza. I’ll just get the tot glasses from the dining room….. you know there’s nothing like coming home to a bottle of the Yorkshire man’s home brew bramble wine having exploded across the width of the dining room with a spatter pattern worthy of any US crime drama. The dining table has a puddle underneath and the wall to the side of the explosion which is a Farrow and Ball heritage maroon colour,  now has a bramble wine maroon Dulux non-Matchpot 3 foot patch. The trajectory finishes at the distressed glass cabinet which by now is positively inconsolable. The wine is maturing in the barn.

To gentler pastimes  - shorting and backing 70 leylandii trees has won us the lumberjack chequered shirt award in recognition of battling on against all odds commonly known as briar. Now it makes sense why it took a 100 years for a dumb enough prince to turn up to rescue Sleeping Beauty or it must be that through mists of oral story telling by grandma the first case of dementia may have occurred and it slipped her memory to mention that the prince started on the edge of the forest as a rhinoceros, then at some point the good fairy that in another incarnation converted the frog into a prince, interfered and Prince Rhino was, by the centre of the briar vortex, a handsome prince without a single scratch. Anyway we’ve gone from 12 feet tall to 8 feet (shorting) and lopped the fronts and backs off to try to encourage the branches to thicken on the sides to make a more dense hedge to fight the wind back; we get some interesting breezes that signal change is in the air without Mary Poppins or Dick van Dyke shouting “cor blimey mate!”

Having written the last bit about lumberjacking, a quick update, with the fact that we have experienced 100 km winds and hailstone. I couldn’t get out to take pictures but 8 foot bamboo was blowing horizontal and a heavy duty double garden seat tucked in near the house has been blown over. There was that much wind that it was blowing in through vents to make gurgling noises in every sink, tub and shower in the house, which is a blessing as we thought it was a repeat of the bedroom ceiling episode.

And persisting with lumber jacking my hot date on the eve of Valentine’s day was M. Herve who delivers bois de chauffage, he promised to ring in the afternoon to arrange to deliver 3 stere of the stuff, this translates as I will ring you at 7 pm and turn up at 9 pm. So there I was with P shifting a quarter of a ton of fire wood into the barn at 9 p.m. Summer I can understand, light nights and all that.

Likewise the nocturnal TV man promised to ring in the afternoon which was 6.30 pm with a rendez-vous at 7.45 pm when it is so much easier to investigate the aerial position on top of the toilet to see if the dum English has done it wrong. Satisfied that was ok there were then lots of breathy whistles followed by a “C’est une grande probleme” at the state of the aerial connection in the lounge (not our own work) but possibly that of a Yorkshireman worried about the cost of coaxial cable.  And by the way the French equivalent of a careful Yorkshireman is a resident of the Auvergne, an Auvergnat. Anyway the upshot is a new freeview box. The TV in the kitchen also now works and we can watch the French equivalent of Loose Women which is just what P needs NOT, having inadvertently become a member of the studio audience of the English version while wandering aimlessly down the Thames just before we came out here.

From one type of wood to another, we are looking for armoires, we have been to four brocantes so far, ignoring the first 3 on the grounds of small fortune or pure tat; no 4… well P was beginning to think of as a figment of his imagination having noticed it while were out terrifying the locals with the Harley and on a Sunday – sacre bleu.  We went back 3 days later in the car to find it but it wasn’t until we were on our way back – 5 pm in the evening that we spotted it – just 20 minutes from home. Well I say 20 minutes  - a note for anyone looking for brocantes, owners tend to put up notices a minimum of 20 kilometres from where they actually are which is  places where there comes a point where you should abandon all hope as the municipal authorities have given up with road signs and only handwritten directions back to civilisation remain.  We asked Mr Brocante if he was open and that started the verbal flood which was clearly an indication that he had not seen anyone for the last month. Despite him clocking we were English from the car and flattering though it is for a local to think I can understand everything they say ..I struggle at 500 words a minute smattered with Basque informing us of the last 50 years of English occupation in the bottom corner of the Pyrenees Atlantique whilst wandering around a 20 by 15 foot garage, where in between what the English have been doing, we are also treated to the provenance, wood, date and interested parties of every piece of furniture we happen to pass – none of which are armoires. We emerged into the failing light disappointed but thanking our local historian for his time, when his arms start to flail to the point where we think that the concealed tank which is feeding him oxygen to maintain the pause free diatribe dialogue, has run out, but no, it turns out he does have armoires and we follow him across the road to a barn. We are so excited, he throws back huge doors, and there we have it a football sized space with furniture stacked to the ceiling with just the backs, undersides, tops or legs showing – P’s hands cover his eyes and he starts to shake his head.  Our host commences making a space, wheeling stuff on little carts to near the door, it is like building a sandcastle while the tide comes in. We are slowly squeezed behind an 18th century settle and a very nice writing table

-“which would go in the bedroom…but it’s not an armoire”
“yes I know but you can write letters on it in your bedroom”

I don’t think I look like a character from “Room with a View” . 

The verbal assault of provenance etc etc etc of every piece of furniture continues whilst he moves table after table after table after chair, after table in order for us to get to see……………………………………… 4 wardrobes. One of which is 2k, another which has been eaten by woodworm’s answer to Mr Pastry, the third is the size of a small house even by our standards and the fourth which we can’t see because it is too far back but is from the time of Louis Napoleon AND will accommodate our hats and cravats via its side door…it has a side door, another small house then?  We take dimensions and promise to go back…it is 7.30 pm, we peer into the gloomy twilight searching for the hand painted signpost and as turn the corner we can still hear (translated from the French) “ And you know the station house in Abitain where you live, there’s an English man living there as well. But you know there are no trains there anymore!”

Time has moved on apace and we have warm weather, 22 degrees in fact, which P thinks is almost hot enough to go in the pool until a visit to St Jean de Luz and a paddle in the sea, albeit the Atlantic is slightly larger body of water. 




St Jean de Luz is a cross between Basque fishing village and Napoleonic (Third Empire) holiday destination. 


Everyone was gathered on the prom when we arrived, watching les pompiers tackle a fire at the top of one of the posh hotels. We wished we had brought our cozzies for a spot of sun worship – they were all out there – the over 60’s and a group who kept emerging in white bath robes from the health spa. 12 of them wandering up the beach behind the “look at me, I’m wonderful shooby dooby wah” health instructor whose lofty gesticulations were we presume about seaside ions. We were waiting for the big dip but only two went in in the end.  We had a paddle coupled with a sharp intake of breath.

And so we return to wood. We inherited this, 



the previous owner ran out of energy. Note the lean, after the tempetes the angles of lean became... imminnet collapse so P set to to finish it off and we have ended up with this. 




The journey has not been easy – heart attack when I nearly spiked a large toad who refused to move out. I have spiked one before accidentally and the scream is awful, especially when you carry it round to the neighbour to see if he will take it off for you, trying to not to wobble the fork as you go since it elicits the same heart rending agonising sound.  We had a sit off, as I weeded around him with a petite trowel, until P came to remove him in the soil tray. Unfortunately no pictures and he was not as pretty as the tree frogs who have taken up residence behind the shutters – they have become Monsieur et Madame Passepartout.  Anyway them aside next came the debate about to roof or not to roof – we have spare slates but the octagonal shape would make it difficult. When you sit inside it the view up to the sky is interesting so we stay as it is for now.

So now battery is going and McD waitress is looking at me ....I would like to t leave you with an abiding memory of P's favourite job...fixing toilet cisterns..but the upload takes days to get to SW France.

I will try to get a shorter one in next time.

A bientot.

xx



Saturday, 8 February 2014

Bric a brac



Bonjour mes choufleurs

Greetings from MacaDee.

We have attempted le ski…a challenge for me psychodogically given my last run ended in the big yellow stretcher and Colgate ring of confidence man asking permission to touch me in “an inappropriate place ma’am” followed by 2 hours alternately sitting on frozen peas and wheatbags. Some noticeable differences in US and French skiing

–        the helpful US brush any snow off the chair lift upon which you are about to sit…the French don’t, even when it’s that snow that really wets you
-        the French shout at you even if you are not planning to go through the gate onto the ski lift, in the US it is have a nice day.
-        The French will not necessarily stop the lift roller mat thingy on which you are standing even tho’ they told you to stand further forward and you are in danger of coming of the end before the lift chair arrives. The Us are scared witless of being sued.
-        The French automatically think you want wine for lunch despite the slippy footwear to be redonned,  the first time you stupidly accept without thinking. 



I was not dancing with these the first time, I know they’re huskies. You can go on day trips with them and if you fall down in the snow, they drag you back home by your hood so you don’t die, at least I think that’s what the brochure said.


We were also testing the new technology that day - car snowshoes



On the creative side we have planted 2 rows of spuds.  P is still battling with les taupes and has attempted to rotivate his way through the earth’s core to join our surrogate son Mr B in Sydney. There has been ash put down, a chisel poked in moments after a hill has appeared, foul language, and big heel stomps. At the point of writing this the mole equivalent of a two finger salute appeared almost in the back kitchen and he resorted to jumping off the chicken house roof.  

I need someone to write to P advising of the danger of looking like Victor Meldrew in the hedgehog scene.  Meanwhile I have quietly got on and weeded all this



We have commenced decoration of the lounge as the rainy day project..we only do it when it rains. In the UK there is B & Q, stateside go to Home Deeeeepoooooot and in France Mr Bricolage, Bricomarche or Castorama. Who said the French are not into DIY;well it is possibly true based on the woman pursuing an assistant round the shop with “Ceci, que fait-il? “ on a loop. They even seem to have pensioner Wednesday.

And we have been kept on the DIY straight and narrow due to a tempet violent without the Caliban, unless you class P contorting and snorting with derision whilst trying to move lights and re-wire switches with wiring akin to the Paris metro map. This has been exacerbated by the fact that when putting new paint on the old paint has obligingly come off!  Anyway the tempet has been so violent that our patio by the back door which is 11 bi 10 bi 3 inches in depth filled up and this is in spite of a legally required soak away..we watched our wellingtons float away from under the patio table cover AND…….the rain has come through the window shutters (we battened down all the hatches). As the young man in the café in Salies de Bearn once said and it could have been a direct quote from any of the cafés in Hawes, Coniston or the Ribble Valley ….”It doesn’t get this green by magic you know” ou “Ce ne develop pas ce vert par magic, tu sais”.

Many a time has it been said P knows how to show a girl a good time. My birthday was spent at the Foire d’Occasion in Navarrenx.  I was not entirely sure what one of these might be except I knew there was to be a vide grenier which is like a French car boot come temporary brocante, an antique/junk shop. So there we were working up and watching a steam being worked up on aged agricultural machinery whilst Lionel Ritchie’s Caribbean Queen is being blasted out over the village tannoy system.  Party on Wayne.



I negotiated expertly the very excited woman who asked where she could see the animals. I told her I had walked right round the village and seen none and she seemed to understand.

Scared of being asked to dance by the guy in the shell suit or P whipping out a scale model of hawk, Nimrod or JSF to the words:

“Call that a machine? This is a machine” I dragged him off to find the vide grenier which was in the school sports hall, the walk to which was highlighted by the local village character hitching her trousers up in a manoeuvre which seemed to suggest the opposite was about to happen, this was followed by her picking up a piece of stray ivy and some mistletoe and wrapping it affectionately in a rain mate and then the piece de resistance; looking in each parked car and then kissing the window…………it seems the world over we give lost souls the same askance look and twenty foot wide berth. 

I was hoping the animal lady had walked this way as the vide grenier was also advertising the chance to see “les beaux animaux” and there they were ….chickens and cockerels of all shapes and sizes…why are most breeds named after Orpington in Kent?  Then there was a very rowdy German cockerel and all the French breeds bar one looked like the teapot version of Angela Lansbury in Beauty and the Beast complete with bloomers. The cutest were the two little brown ducks who I would have just loved following me round the house as pets.  

But it also brings me to the newest phrase I have learned which is “leche la vitrine”…which translates literally as lick the windows and actually means window shopping.

This bit also brings me to the faux pas of P when we were first looking for a house. We brought a present for the owners of the chamber d’hote in which we stayed a couple of times and Muriel – a Parisian version of a young Hannah Gordon (those under 45 look it up). She had fallen in love with P in part because he ate everything she put in front of him. Anyway I taught him to say a phrase when handing over the present (a box of Yorkshire teabags…as she kept offering me a tissane – I may have short legs like him but there the resemblance to Hercule Poirot stops…yes I know he’s Belgian). The evening went like this:

While changing for dinner:

S        P you say “Muriel - Un petit cadeau pour vous”
P        Muriel, un petit cadeau pour vous
          Muriel, un petit cadeau pour vous
          Muriel, un petit cadeau pour vous
          Muriel , un petit canard pour vous”
S        No, no don’t say that; it means a little duck for you
P        Oh ok, Muriel, un petit cadeau pour vous
          Muriel, un petit cadeau pour vous

But the seed was sown. At dinner:

M       Bonjour Philippe et Sharman.(followed by mwah, mwah on each side of face except P gets three off her, only two is customary if just an acquaintance)
S        Bonjour Muriel
A (lain, Muriel’s husband) Bonjour Philippe et Sharman (mwah mwah…I
don’t get three off Alain)
P        Muriel
M       Oui Philippe (eyelashes almost fluttered off)
P        Un petit canard pour vous
M       Oh (as only the French can oh…you could eat your dinner off that pouting lip)..mmmmerci beaucoup
S        Cadeau, cadeau.

6  months later

S        Philippe, pour mon cadeau je voudrais deux petit canard

Maintenant a second ski trip, I think I have finally understood what I should be doing when skiing and that is to concentrate all the time…because whilst you may be getting to grips with the technique you can’t just float off and admire the view because some norrty pearsonne ‘as left les grands divots of snow which upset the back of your skis and send you into a perilous wobbell.  

The weather was a little better so no worries about a sopping tush.



It was touch and go whether we would get there because the main route via Arette was shut due to a landslip. The alternative was via St Engrace and the gorge de Kakaouetta …which I think is a Basque word meaning “pooh your pants” on account of the road which looks like it too should be designated a landslip. Stunning




but then it dawned on us that if this road did slip we would have to make our way back via Spain….obviously not all of it but enough for us not to get back in time for tea and a long time to be in messy underhosen.

Time to head home, sun’s gone to bed, but still stunning…hopefully there will be no landslides




We have also been to our inaugural village event; lunch to celebrate the combattants ?????????? of the village, we know of the first world war and Gaston Febus holed and repelling tout le monde for many a long day. P was not looking forward to this on account of being shy and not speaking much French. The day had not started well as it was our first real up close and personal with an old house. We had been aware of this leak…from the brown stain which had appeared on our bedroom ceiling and the gentle kerplink sound. My chevalier who is now sporting a beard had gone up to investigate 3 days earlier, an activity which required him to hug the chimney breast for dear life, become besmirched in cobwebs and discover a bucket cunningly hidden on the other side of said chimney breast. The general problem was sorted by a canny move of the bucket to the near side of said cheminee on account of the rain having changed direction, OBVIOUSLY. But this am just after the church bells clanged 7, the first kerplinkers were joined by the second kerplinkers and a lone kerplonker which forced its way through the ceiling to form a pool on the bedroom floor. P straight from dressing gown and morning tea to cobweb caghoul in one bound, Flashing Blade eat your heart out….meanwhile the lady of the house invents a new way of working out where to put the bucket in a darkened area with no hope of light (our house has only 2 rooms with central lighting). This is to place the bucket where you think it should be, peer closely at the spot and wait for the freezing cold kerplonk on the back of your neck to tell you got it wrong. Try this a couple of times and you miraculously develop night vision.

So….it becomes:

P        “I guess we are going to this do…………………………………………………”
S        “Of course. We have told them we would and I haven’t had the lady of the committee shriek down the phone “that she doesn’t know me” and then slam the phone down on me for nothing!

The silence is deafening.

S        P you can’t come into a small community (97 inhabitants) and ignore them.

The sun comes out, P trims his beard, I wonder whether it is acceptable 
to wear a vest to these types of occasions.

And off we go through the village, P inspecting every drain, arbour, well, garden and window shutter to delay the inevitable. He even persuades me to walk past la salle de convivialite (how can it not be a friendly place with such a name) where the meal is being prepared so he can “look” at the other part of the village (he’s had 5 weeks to do that). The church clock tolls midi, poor P is a whiter shade of pale. We enter, and the wife of the mayor approaches welcomingly. Lots of villagers enter and the bonjouring increases and every farmer tries to tell us which farm they have including the one who seemed to be saying that his was near big trees and had little houses (he gesticulated roof shapes low to the ground and plus petited) which might have been for bees but then that would be our neighbour Patrick who only has an orchard for the hell of it and the trees may be mediumish but not GRANDE. 

Then we are invited to the bar;
-      le martini (last time I was about 16)  and le whisky,
We are invited to sit at a long table with everyone:
-      le starter (5 lots of canapés) and bread and punch,* editor’s note 1,
-      lanother starter of soup and bread and punch, * editor’s note 2,
-      the main course – veal in a cream and tomato sauce (first time for veal probably one of many first times I won’t be sure of…did I mention I am trying each cheese we encounter and I hate cheese), strange no veg but bread and wine, * editor’s note  3,
-      ah the actual main course – duck and vegetables with meat wrapped round them and potatoes gratin and…..bread and wine, * editor’s note 4,
-      and now cheese and what have we here… bread and wine, * editor’s note 5,
-      oh god le pudding – chocolate and cream accompanied by br… no champagne * editor’s note 6
-      and a speech by Monsieur le mairie along with slide show where combattants seem to be the villagers and their community activities since 2007 (when M le Maire was elected)…there has been a lot of drain digging, church restoration and the installation of a timer to ring the bells at 7 am, 12 pm and 7pm  tree chopping, swashing down the pelotte court and the uncharacteristic appearances of farmers’ lower legs  on their annual outing which made much merriment and mirth. There was no evidence of fighting …or they weren’t telling the new people in town anyway and we didn’t like to mention Nelson even though unlike Napoleon, he paid for all his soldiers billets and nosh and the ladies were able to keep their hands safely on their tuppence.

P then washes up and I talk philosophical with Madame la Maire and it is time to au revoir and a bientot.

9.30 – Sunday evening of the meal P thinks he’s having a heart attack more commonly known in France as “Un crise de foie”. If you’re wondering what foie is, it would be eaten by the English with onions, possibly sausage and gravy with a big chunk of bread for dipping and mash. The editor is happy to report this has not stopped him checking his home made bramble wine  through to the bottom of the bottle (an Englishman and homebrew in France why does this feel like another mole campaign), having seconds of home-made orange scented almond torte (Williams and Sonoma Mediterranean cooking), home-made tarte tatin and brebis which is sheep cheese matured for 2 years and yes I have even tried that.

2 days later another invite to the annual thank you from the local hunt, who cook a meal for being allowed to run their hunt through your land (this was not in the small print). I think P’s mole isn’t a mole at all but some poor deer gone to ground and living the subterranean life.

Happy window licking

Editor’s note 1 – P has seconds
Editor’s note 2 – P has seconds
Editor’s note 3 – P has seconds
Editor’s note 4 – P has seconds
Editor’s note 5 – P has seconds
Editor’s note 6 – seconds not offered


Sunday, 19 January 2014

Nous commencons


Les Taupes versus M. Doublavay  

Bonjour tout le monde. By the time you read this we will have been here a wee while. The delay in reporting anything is due to the fact that Le MacDee in Orthez, the only place with wifi within a 60 mile radius, has shut for refurbishment. It didn’t look like it needed doing but maybe the griddles needed replacing because from what we have seen, les Francais give le Big Mac a real bashing.
Since starting this blog we have just taken delivery of a satellite dish; apart from selling your universe for an Orange dongle, Nordnet  is one of the few means of receiving the internet. We have successfully installed it ourselves which involved an infinite act of bravery by me standing on top of the garage toilet (yes we have a toilet for the garage). I can get up things just not down them.
So what have we learned:

Cultural diversity

·         the Basque country is a world apart from the rest of France


 
·         the vast majority of the male population over 50 with a fashion sense wear berets at an assortment of jaunty angles, there is the odd one with ancestors from the home counties who sports it as a pancake

·         Those wearing berets are compelled to drive at breakneck speed in 4’s in beaten up old Renault’s

·         It is acceptable to pee up the church wall, or maybe, that is just in our local town
 
·         Give a shy English man a compost heap or three in his own private estate 50 yards from the nearest view and he will say good bye to his inhibitions and take to treating it like a church wall

·         Animal parts which, despite being totally unrecognisable, are for human consumption and come in both vacuum packaging and jars and often have 2 X’s in their name

·         It is acceptable to dress up in vaguely Victorian funereal garb and partake of breakfast in the square, we presume you need a "larcense"

·         The French use the word pudding and 3 french profiteroles will make you feel very very sick……

Household items

·         Parking the car near an 18th century house and barns in a force 10 means you will end up with a part of a ridge till dinging your bonnet like the hail from Texas…

·         It takes three goes in a force 10 to recover a swimming pool with its winter coat and if you are VERY careful you can pick the rocks up from the bottom of the pool using a leaf gatherer

·         When a local pompier comes to your house on a Saturday the clue is the calendar. We have yet to learn if our voluntary contribution for a calendar of fully clad pompiers, including one rescuing an owl….., is enough to ensure they will turn up if we have a fire. And then when you get a happy new year slip from the chair of the village fete committee you start worrying as to whether there is a contribution for that!

·         It takes three months for Maison du Monde to deliver kitchen stools but only 6 weeks to deliver 2 sofas.
    
Gardening

·         You can only have your buggered sit on lawn mower collected on a Tuesday lunchtime but it will be fixed by Thursday.  

·         The French for solenoid seems to be…….solenoid and the mower man blanks you when you tell him you had it working with a battery from a Harley Davison

·         Do not give a small woman a large hedge cutter and expect her to top and tail a 6 foot beech hedge without cutting through the plastic covered steel washing line directly behind her …..Philippe

·         Cucumber tastes like it did when you were little (1966 onwards)

·         You can never be too harsh with a wisteria

·         Unless you have the technique, a brier will fight back when you strike it with a machete

·         P is not a violent man except when it comes to a colony of moles threatening the potager. Short of whacking them with a spade if they put their head above the parapet (thanks for that suggestion  Riona) they can be electrocuted, pulsar beamed into leaving or poisoned with pellets though, after my look of horror, the lady in the gardening shop assured me that the “odeur” is enough to repulse them so no mole ever gets harmed in the defending of the potager.

grands bisous