Thursday, 18 February 2016

Philippe, Whilippe, sur, sûr, potato, potaato

Bonjour my little chipirons ,

Oui I agree it has been a long time, beaucoup des gaves sous the pont as they may say in the Bearn Patois. Tempting tho’ it is to furnish you with a brief synopsis of blogs that should have been I do not wish to bore you rigid, first time round this was the Freudian typo – frigid..appropriate when I started to write this on St Valentine’s Day, I thought.

Why now? Well I couldn’t let the moment pass without saying goodbye to the circumflex. Yes the Academie Francaise which rules on all things lingual in France has decided to banish it. A welcome move for those who do not sign language and who have been misunderstood for millennia (well since about 1740) because the sometimes there is no difference in pronunciation e.g.  “sur” -> on  and “sûr” ->  certain. For more detail:


And if you haven’t the time – it seems to boil down to monks feeling guilty about sloppy diction and so the loss of letters like S – “Pity ...INIT BRO”.

From Academie Francaise we move effortlessy to the opposite end of the spectrum culturally when yesterday whilst at the market in Navarrenx we tried to teach P’s personal cheesemonger, Marion, to say “Tighter than a duck’s arse”, I started it with “short arms and deep pockets” and he just had to lower the tone. It was in response to her recommendation for a café at a café round the corner which was “pas plus cher”. She knows more than one way to charm a Yorkshireman. The French saying is “Tonder des oeufs” which literally means  “To shear eggs”.

Anyway no such angst at the attrition of a noble language for P who, whilst understanding all that is said to him by our Gallic friends continues, through modesty primarily, to struggle to articulate his thoughts and desires. Not that this is a hindrance; he has Marion’s telephone number in case he has a cheese emergency , at any village repas the ladies of the parish have this overwhelming desire to feed him up and make sure he is well tended and the wives of the village mayor and builder swoon like Sleeping Beauty on account of our latest project.

Oh Philippe, Mon Dieu,  c’est superbe (no circumflex….never was). And his fame is spreading as we receive a request from a friend of a friend in the metropolis that is Sauveterre who has requested that her French husband come to see what P has built. Note the nesting box at the side




Not unlike Saint Valentine I have been at risk during this cause, though he was the patron saint of chocolate and martyred because he wouldn’t reduce the amount of cocoa solids in his Nipples of Venus (I think that’s true) my downfall is likely to be eggs.  

We are moving into the final stages of preparation for les poules which is the run, I find myself on the end literally of a 2.5 metre pole which is being split down the middle using a circular saw  which the previous inhabitants left us in the garage


This piece of kit is to me, what the furnace in the basement was to Macaulay Culkin in “Home Alone” and I have similar trepidation when it comes to our hydraulic log splitter which according to the runaway best selling author  Lars Mytting is only used by tough old timers when they reach the age of 95.....

I digress, my job is JUST to hold the wood steady at one end. P commences feeding the jagged toothed beast, at first I feel like the fodder in a medieval trebuchet, if the physics goes wrong I am likely to be catapulted over his head to either hit double tops on the dartboard or discover whether the beams are fit for purpose as I sit astride one. As the sawing progresses I am drawn inexorably towards the jaws of death which start to “fulminate” with blue smoke, no worries, methinks that’s just friction.  P stops to allow for cooling off and a slurp of tea. We are a third of the way but resumption finds the blade refusing to spin on account of the pole not wanting to be split asunder (now I see the point of physics).  So we return to trebuchet formation starting at the other end of the pole and whilst concentrating on not having "mi skin nipped" between what is now two bits of wood I miss the aroma of burning synthetic until a brief downward glance reveals my yellow body warmer is responding warmly to the slops tray of the saw which is responding to the sawdust which appears to have spontaneously combusted. I utter a squawk... a huge sigh from P which translates to an incredulous "And your problem is?"  so all is turned off and the remainder of the Yorkshire tea is chucked on the flames for another cooling off period. The obstinate third of a length having been reached, the only answer is to cut the middle section by hand.  I am told to just hold the wood and not lean on it…I can only stop it jiggling up and down under the force of P’s sawing action if I lean on it. P makes good progress, I am approaching from behind, and he starts to get narked when the pole begins to jiggle again. This is for his own good or he will have to buy a French version of the tshirt “I do not beat my wife” the English version was in response to when like now he just hadn’t seen me standing behind him as he turned round elbows first…..initially it was a common occurrence...Bruce Armstrong of Kingston University and half the Law Department of Northumbria University can attest to my black eye/swollen cheek bone.

Yesterday's trip to Navarrenx was to offset P’s other labours one of which is lagging the loft, a king’s ransom of Kingspan would be required so we have standard loft insulation for above the ceilings and quilted tin foil to fit under the roof tiles and staple to the roof battens. 



There is a lot of contorting to achieve this…he is a big bloke trying to fit in some teeny spaces. He is valiant…I am scared witless of heights. My role in any of these situations is generally to make cups of tea and cake and at really great unpredictable heights foot the ladder. Here I find P’s grasp of physics rather flimsy for an engineer …I am never going to right a ladder with my 7 and a half stone at the bottom and his 15 stone at the top. At least he won’t be laying there undiscovered for hours/days being nibbled alive and possibly to death by the bats.

So, to return, we wandered out of Navarrenx, meandering along the picturesque Vallee d'Josbaig to Oloron Ste Marie so P could pick his own birthday chocolates from the Lindt factory outlet shop http://www.pyrenees-bearnaises.com/en/a-land-of-art-and-history/tourist-sites-and-museums/lindt-and-sprungli-master-chocolate-maker/master-chocolate-makers.htm, there seem to conflicting messages on tinterweb about whether there is a factory there or not but having grown up in a town which was home to British Oil and Cocoa Mills I can’t believe that all that chocolatey aroma is just escaping the foil wrapped chocs.  OSM is a place we regularly circumnavigate twice in our attempts to get to Gourette ski resort, Eaux Bonnes

 stunning but slightly dilapidated spa town which has suffered the effects of global warming in the form of humungous downpours, landslips and burst riverbanks and Laruns which has a creperie, Fleur de Sel, where the crepes are anything but “crape”.

After being turned away from Aux Pyrenees where the tables were rammed or reserved we seek out an alternative and then decide to walk around OSM and discover lots of crooks and nannies and an amazing  mediatheque building erected at the confluence of the Gave D’Aspe and the Gave d’Ossau. What I loved is that it is a risky place to build such a structure but it tries to harmonise with its environment by allowing the water to flow underneath it and out of outlets but they only come in to play when the water is at a specific height. A great example I think of person/persons trying to live with nature not fight it.

Proceeding with our perambulations which took us past more public conveniences than usual, I select the only foot hold pissoir and then arrive at France’s response to the Tracey Urmin Sloppy Bed..”Le Lit Ecologique



And a wrong turn to this sign 




which translates roughly to “For his/her safety (and to protect us from litigating relatives), if an old geezer or gal is trying to make a run for it at the same time as you, please alert to staff so they can let the dogs out and put the kettle on.”


And to finish off the day I persuaded P that we needed to pootle along the Valle d'Aspe to try to find the remote valley where we almost bought a house which had a moat and where I also wandered with Roisin and Finlay on a roundabout route to pick P up from Pau airport. We didn’t get quite as remote as last time but will be going back to get closer to this:



Adishatz (common au revoir)

xx